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Like most modern cameras, the Canon EOS R7 is packed with page after page of features. With so many settings (more than 450, in fact), it's easy to overlook things you don't need to adjust right away.
In this article, I'd like to take a closer look at some points that can improve the experience with your new camera. I'll highlight some new, overlooked, or underappreciated options and explain what they do and who they're for.
Although I am using the menu on the Canon EOS R7, these features can be found on other cameras, even from other brands, but please note that they may vary slightly or significantly.
1. Pre-record and RAW burst modes [Record Menu 6]
Configuration options:
- RAW burst mode: enable/disable
- Pre-recording: On/Off
The number of continuous shots has increased steadily throughout the history of photography. Serious professional sports cameras can now record 10-16 frames per second. By using an electronic shutter, like the one on the EOS R7, modern mirrorless cameras now typically hit 30 frames per second.
However, it doesn't matter how fast a camera can take pictures if the key moment is missed before the shutter button is pressed. RAW Burst mode is designed to capture snapshot images instantlyBeforeYour finger presses the shutter button all the way down. This photographer's holy grail has been available for other brands and other Canon models, such as the G5X II and EOS M6 II, but now it's available for the first time for R-mount cameras.
I learned to appreciate this feature when trying to capture archers shooting arrows. Going in, I felt that the most attractive shots were the ones where the archer's arrow had just been shot but is still visible in the frame. The problem with trying to capture this moment is that it happens extremely fast and you can't predict exactly when it will happen.
Catching an arrow in flight trying to time its release is a frustrating endeavor. With the pre-shot RAW burst mode, you can ensure a good photo almost every time. Credit: John Greengo |
I first tried to shoot a sequence of frames as soon as I saw the arrow start. In all cases my reaction time was very slow and the arrow was off the screen. I then tried firing a continuous burst of fire at full speed just before I thought the archer was about to fire. Most of these attempts ended with the camera buffer filling up before the arrow was fired. Success was possible, but it resulted in a large amount of wasted footage.
RAW burst mode is precisely designed to solve the archer's arrow problem. If you enable RAW burst mode and pre-shot option, as soon as you hold down the shutter button in the middle position, the camera will keep recording high-speed images into a buffer and discarding the old ones. If you release the button and do not take the photo, the images will disappear and your card will not be charged. However, if you press the shutter button completely, the last 15 frames (0.5 seconds) will be saved as the start of the sequence and the camera will record at 30 frames per second (60 frames) for up to 2 seconds. If you hold down the shutter button, you will take about 75 photos in total, 15 of themBeforethe full press of the shutter button and 60 after.
| Choosing RAW Burst mode is just the first step. You should also select Pre-record to allow your camera to take pictures before the shutter is released. |
For those crucial and difficult moments, this is the feature that can ensure that your camera captures images at just the right time. Scenes that are easy to predict but difficult to time, such as the batting of a baseball, the leap of the whales and the archer's arrow, can now be captured like never before with a Canon R-mount camera.
Note that when using this feature, all images are written to a single .CR3 file. Frame extraction can be done in-camera or with Canon's Digital Photo Professional software. Also, the camera uses the electronic shutter, which may exhibit rolling shutter distortion in certain types of scenes (see below).
2. Shutter Mode [Record Menu 7]
Configuration options:
- mechanic
- 1st electric curtain
- electronic
mechanic
With this option, the physical shutter blades open and close to start and end the exposure. This is how Canon mirrorless cameras and traditional Canon DSLRs have worked for years. It's a safe choice for many types of photography and offers 1/250-second flash sync.
The disadvantage of the mechanical shutter is that the first curtain opens so quickly that there is a slight vibration when it stops, which can affect certain types of photos. Images captured with somewhat slow shutter speeds (1/30 to 1 second) may be affected. High magnification images, such as those captured with super telephoto and macro lenses, are particularly prone to blur when there is movement during the exposure.
1st electric curtain
When using the first-door electronic shutter, the camera begins capturing the exposure by activating the sensor pixels to register the light that hits them. To end the exposure, the mechanical shutter is closed in the conventional manner.
The effect of this process is that there is no physical movement in the camera before the image is fully captured. While the second shutter does move and may cause slight vibration, it does so after the exposure ends. Consequently, the elect. Perfect first curtain option to avoid vibrations during exposure.
| the c. First curtain is a good choice when working with high magnification equipment such as super telephoto and macro lenses. Without a working first shutter, the camera has no mechanical movement during the exposure. |
An additional benefit of the Canon EOS R7 is that Elec. The first curtain enables the camera's fastest flash sync speed of 1/320, which is slightly better than the mechanical sync speed of 1/250. the c. "1. Shade is the factory default setting and probably the best setting for most photos.
electronic
With the fully electronic shutter option, the image sensor starts and stops recording by turning pixels on and off. The electronic shutter not only allows for continuous shooting and faster shutter speeds, but also a complete absence of shutter vibration and noise. The ideal use for this could be during a stage performance or in a situation where audio is being recorded and the click of the shutter can be distracting. In these situations, the silent shutter can be a powerful tool.
The downside is that since the sensor cannot turn all pixels on and off at the same time, a sampling technique is used. (WatchThis articlefor a full explanation). This means that movement of the subject during the exposure may appear as subject distortion. The intensity of the problem depends on the readout speed of the sensor, and since the Canon EOS R7 doesn't have particularly fast readouts, its electronic shutter is generally not well-suited for capturing fast action.
The electronic shutter is perfect for situations where you want to go unnoticed. Some cameras, including the EOS R7, have a slower scan speed, so be careful with fast-moving subjects. Credit: John Greengo |
If you choose to shoot with the electronic shutter, some other camera functions will be affected and many menu items will be grayed out when selected. One major limitation for the camera is that with the electronic shutter selected, it cannot sync with a flash at any shutter speed. Please note that this limitation is different for other Canon cameras.
I recommend using this option sparingly to avoid the issues mentioned above.
3. Hilfs-AF light shooting [AF Menu 3]
Configuration options:
- Enable
- deactivate
- AF assist LED lamp only
On the front of the EOS R7, in the upper left corner of the lens, is a small circular window officially known as the AF/self-timer assist area. This orange lamp signals the countdown of the timer or illuminates a dimly lit subject to aid the autofocus system.
| The built-in light can be useful in low light and close-ups, but it can also be distracting. Be aware of situations where your subjects, other photographers, and others around you may not appreciate the light. |
Focusing in low light can be challenging and this lamp can help as long as your subject isn't too far away. The practical distance depends on the lighting available and the maximum aperture of the lens used. The lamp is not used when continuous (servo) AF is on, so it does not work with moving subjects.
Turning off this beacon can make sense for a number of reasons. Light only helps marginally in some special situations. The camera has a number of other tricks you can use to focus in low light, such as: B. keeping the lens aperture at full f-stop while focusing and increasing the gain on the sensor.
When photographing people, keep in mind that this lamp will throw a fairly strong light into the subject's eyes. The subject may blink, spin, or flinch from the sudden burst of light.
Another serious light drawback arises when you are collaborating with other photographers shooting the same subject, e.g. B. at a concert, press event, or tourist attraction. The bright orange light shining on your subject will show up in your images. This probably won't go down very well with your fellow photographers.
I first encountered this bulb issue while leading a photography tour in Turkey where we booked a private whirling dervishes dance performance. In a dark and private corridor, our group spread out to one side of the room. Once the dance started, an orange lightbulb appeared to follow the subjects. Complaints from the other photographers quickly followed.
The problem is that when confronted, the photographer didn't know it was on and didn't see it in the viewfinder or in the resulting photos. After apologizing for disturbing others, the photographer didn't know how to turn it off. It took me a moment to find the feature in the camera menu (not Canon EOS R7) and turn it off.
While this feature can be useful in some situations, it's probably best left in the off position for most people.
4. Switching (AF/MF) [Setup Menu 5]
Configuration options:
- Enable
- deactivate
A new feature of the EOS R7, not seen on previous Canon cameras, is a physical AF/MF switch on the body. For over 30 years, Canon has kept the AF/MF switch firmly on the lens, while others like Nikon and Fujifilm have often placed it on the body. This special feature of the EOS R7 allows you to disable the switch. Disabling it can be useful if you find it accidentally or if you prefer to control this feature through the menu system.
| Canon's new MF/AF switch can be controlled with one finger. The option allows for a quick change with a new generation of Canon lenses. |
The reason behind this new change appears to be to accommodate a new category of Canon lenses without a dedicated AF/MF switch, such as the B. RF 50mm f/1.8. Switching from AF to MF with these new "keyless" lenses will be easy to accomplish with this new lever on the body. Note, however, that if you want to manually focus with a lens like the RF 50mm f/1.8, you'll need to set the body switch to MF and the focus/lens control switch to Focus.
Canon lenses without AF/MF switch:
- RF 16 mm 1: 2,8 STM
- RF 50 mm 1: 1,8 STM
- RF 15–30 mm 1:4,5–6,3 IS STM
- RF 24–105 mm 1:4–7,1 IS STM
- RF 24–240 mm 1:4–6,3 ES USM
- RF-S 18–45 mm 1:4,5–6,3 IS STM
- RF-S 18–150 mm 1:3,5–6,3 IS STM
| Instead of an AF/MF switch, many inexpensive Canon lenses have a focus/control switch that allows you to set the focus ring to something else. | Canon's high-end and conventional RF series lenses have a dedicated AF/MF switch on the lens. |
For all other lenses, RF and EF with adapter, the AF/MF switch on the lens has priority. If a Canon lens with an AF/MF switch is attached to the EOS R7, this new on-body AF/MF switch will do nothing.
| The option to disable the body-mounted AF/MF switch is in the AF menu. |
Note that when you disable this body option, a new menu item appears on the AF1 menu page called "Focus Mode" where you can choose between AF or MF. This feature cannot be set as a custom button, but can be added to My Menu for quick access.
5. Direction to adjust TV/Av [User Menu 3]
Configuration options:
- Normal
- opposite direction
Would you like the movements of your fingers to match the movement of the exposure indicator as you turn the dial to change the exposure setting? If you answered yes, set this function to Reverse Direction.
When changing shutter speed, aperture, and exposure compensation, the command dials and exposure indicator work in opposite directions at the camera's default settings. Moving your finger to the left at the top of the dial moves the exposure indicator to the right. That's how it comes from the factory.
| By default, the front and rear dials do not move in the same direction as the exposure indicator. You can reverse your action to make the setting change feel more natural. |
This problem can be easily resolved by setting the "Direction to set Tv/Av" menu option to "Reverse Direction". The actions of the dial are reversed when changing shutter speed and aperture. I think it's more visually intuitive when the physical action mimics the display.
Juan Greengospecializes in photography education through online courses, books, and international photography tours. Her photographic teachings have been viewed by millions around the world.
These settings are just a few tips on how to get the most out of your camera. In itCanon EOS R7: Complete Camera Guide, an 8-hour video course that guides you through all of the camera's features and helps you customize them to meet your needs. John offers a large number of courses covering a wide range of photography topics, including tutorials on landscapes, travel, and specialized equipment.